I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Looking forward to know your thoughts. I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. Curious on the lapel width used here. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. LOVABLE BROGUE. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? So be prepared that its a risk. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Really great blog. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. Thanks, and great suggestions. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. Thanks!! Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Thanks for your blog Simon! And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Although I agree, Simon, about expecting no artists or artisans, tailors or otherwise, to takes bribes that stretch their natural styles beyond zones of comfort/ experience but with W & S I clearly wasnt asking too much. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. Here is a simple way to think about it. Thanks Simon. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. Bravo! Thanks! Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. Your website is an amazing read. No worries Ravi. Just a suggestion! ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. Kind Regards All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. Creating a Costume From and To Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image! I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? I always try and relax and dont rush my fittings. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. Would W&S be a good option. I had a strict deadline though. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. shoes, shirts, etc.)? The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. Dear Simon, The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. A bit more expensive but still good. Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? Care to share your trick? (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? We wanted to do things the right way, Suresh continues. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. There are a few things you can look for to tell if a suit is bespoke:Firstly, bespoke suits will always be made from premium materials. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. Pinterest. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. And a pair of flannel trousers? We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? Thanks. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. Like this article? I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. Hi Calvin, There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Id say they are both very good. All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. . Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. Free shipping for many products! I hope that makes sense. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. Hi Simon. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. in the style breakdown series. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! I note your enthusiasm for W&S. Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. Fit not good. The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. Thanks for your time, JK. Includes access to the digital magazine. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. Hi, Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. Just one point on pricing. 1 talking about this. Simon quick question. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. 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