Viberg 2020 8.5 GYW: Kinda snug, had to stretch out the instep, slightly smaller than the stitchdown version. Crocketts and Carmina are in there largely for context, as mentioned. Topics include a wide range of brands from Crockett & Jones to Guidi. Allen Edmonds Sizing to Carmina & Meermin Those that have Allen Edmonds and carmina or meermins, what size do you wear in AE compared to the others? I think either would be fine. They are both leather lined with a full leather insole and both have a Goodyear welted single leather sole. Allen Edmonds is a shoe company and will always be known as such. This is certainly true, and prices mentioned in this article are towards each brands respective domestic markets.. Whats interesting is that for US customers it can go both ways depending on guidelines/restrictions from the brands. Foster & Son get this so much better with their RTW. The quality would probably tell more in the calf than the suede too, so makes sense to do it that way around. Here's some of my sizing for reference: Meermin RON 11.5 medium Tricker's Bourton 10.5 Tricker's Stow 11 Carmina Xim UNLINED 10.5 Carmina Simpson 11.5 Alden Grant 11.5 AE is placed well below C&J and Carmina, lacklusterly portrayed together with cheaper brands, and tied with Loake. Heel is kind of big for an oxford shoe it turns out, stick to a boot for this last. Frankly, I wouldnt wear anything else. And you could choose a more rounded last, if that was your preference. Not sure the best place for this, and realise there is no correct answer but was wondering your view on the proportional cost of shoes to suits, shirts etc? For what its worth Joshua, (with plenty of experience of both) I wouldnt necessarily consider C&J a step up from Trickers. Jespers site is shoegazing.com. if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[250,250],'footslide_com-medrectangle-4','ezslot_6',108,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-footslide_com-medrectangle-4-0');The top-grade Shell Cordovan Leather material used to make Carmina shoes is surely one of the best in the world for dress shoes. Most shoes that say theyre made in the Almansa area of Spain are made by Sendra.. I have handled several other pairs of C&J and this quality to the leather is consistent throughout. I would note that although the shoes I own have tight sole stitching, C&J models without pinking on the soles (for example, the Sydney with rubber soles) are noticeably less sleek. Please support us by using them. Second is a Loake 1880 snuff suede apron derby boot. Because the level is higher, and also because I wasnt that impressed with Myrqvist either, personally. Its Spier and Mackay not Spier McKay. Ive around 20 pairs of Carmina, 2 of C&J mainline and a dozen of C&J hangrade. No issues on 5+ hour rides. The soles on the Trickers town shoes wear down quickly. Still a well-made shoe, but too much spent on marketing and retail. Interested to hear your thoughts if one abstracts from the usual price mark-up due to branding etc. Barefoot, thick socks, whatever. Lobb, Green etc have never felt as good in my experience, and in the real world I have never been able to see how or where they could justify their relatively higher prices. Down by half. Have you ever tried or heard of Idrese? Take for instance Santoni, Prada or S. Ferragamo. Exactly!! There is a great day out to be had (or was) visiting the factory shops of the main makers in and around Northampton. Also Barkers at the 1880 price point are made in the UK. Notes about feet: Low instep, low arch, wide-ish with somewhat splayed toes. I dont really David the piece is deliberately written by someone else, not me, as its not an area I have that much experience with. Over the course of the day they tend to pinch my toes rather than stretching to accommodate my feet, as my C&J and Weston do. Please use the following format to facilitate readability and searchability: This is an example of what a good comment looks like. Particularly for certain watches perhaps, although less likely for certain muted bespoke suits which might fit better but wont look more expensive than a good of-the-peg one. Good point Ben, Im not sure. So my true size is an 11.5, in most American boots I'm an 11, and all my boots with European sizing (like Tricker's) are a 10.5. Its a solid fit. I normally wear medium weight socks from Darn Tough and Wigwam unless otherwise specified. Sizing as 10E and filling in vertical space as needed seems to offer the best fit, without any of the above problems. Alden Barrie: I can be comfortable in Bluchers in 8.5E. . Can you please comment on the poor quality of English soles mentioned. (Portuguese shoemaker) Santoni I have experienced, and I would say the same. Japan is the biggest market in Asia for dress shoe brands, but a lot of the cheaper shoes (below 200) are made elsewhere in Asia and just finished at home (similar to Italy). Trickers appears to have a wider breadth to me, especially in country shoes and boots in lots of leathers and colours. This is interesting my experience is the complete opposite. Its actually something well touch on in our upcoming piece looking at budgets and capsule wardrobes. Ive undergone a career change and offices in the US have become more and more lax about dress standards, even prior to 2020. The leather used to make Carmina shoes is better than the leather materials used to make Meermin shoes. Break-in was tough. AE has excellent customer service to this day. Thanks Simon, great work as always. Thing is that, not referring to Berluti necessarily now, but we do see a number of very famous bespoke shoemakers, not least in England, who the past years have started to put out shoes that arent properly made and/or have a proper fit. I have loafers on their Xim and they're too big for my by a hair. I feel much less tired in my feet after a long day, and if one have a bit problematic feet it will be an even bigger difference.. Velasca is an Italian brand that has become popular (they opened on Chiltern Street recently) as has German brand Shoepassion (which makes in Spain). A very useful piece for me as Im slowly getting into the joys of proper shoes. The $200 Meermins (while being good value for money) is nowhere near the equivalent of a pair of Carminas, and they would be quite far from the likes of G&G or EG. Crownhill is decent stuff as well, especially the material level for the price is good. Very useful for us who buy shoes in this price range. TLB Mallorca: I own a wingtip on the Alan last. The choice of quality leather materials makes Meermin shoes very versatile and fitting for many wardrobes. Had the same experience with a pair of Oxfords from them and asked their sales rep about it. I cant comment as to what anything is like higher up the scale but they are both the best looking and most comfortable shoes I own (more than my hiking boots or running shoes). Id highly recommend it for more detail all of these brands, particularly on the technical side. I returned this pair. Not a thick sock last. Youre better off looking at the tannery the leather came from and if it had a recognizable leather name (cxl for example) but even within that there are gradations on the product from the same tannery. The Jermyn Street stores are run by a franchisee. I believe shoes like Meermin have a place in Menswear. Carminas are more expensive than Meermins. US size 8 at the best online prices at eBay! Im happy to pay a bit more for that consistency and service. Cheers Michael, its hard to appreciate that price differential from over here in the EU. Edward Green)? So all in all a shoes that looks good, but not a feel good shoe. Most of my shoes are Crockett & Jones because of the great customer service and the consistent quality. When I do, Im a repeat customer (for instance, narrow EG 202 Chelseas) but my narrow feet preclude me from buying most brands shoes. Still tapered in in waist and heel for a comfortable lock in, but with more room in the toe box and at the ball. Last shape feels similar to Parkhurst 10 and Viberg 9.5, except toe is slightly longer and more tapered, heel is snugger, and it's much roomier throughout the instep. May have been fine with thinner socks. So if there is a middle man, its often the brand. Viberg 2030: 10 - Good fit. Closed lacing a few mm shy of coming together on day one. Carmina shoes are really great shoes that help you to take your style to a whole new level. So far I remained unconvinced but then again I dont know any better. if I like a pair of suede Edward Greens chelseas and Meermin (or Allen Edmond or Loake) chelseas the same out of the box, would I enjoy the EG uppers longer because theyre of a higher grade suede? Alden Van: 10D - Good fit. The Hand-Welting construction of these shoes makes them be very good dress shoes that can fit into any wardrobe quite easily. However, I continue to buy loafers from Allen Edmonds because they sell shoes that come in 4-5 widths, so its easy for someone with narrow feet to find loafers that fit and wont fall off. Because of the great leather material of the Carminas, youll get yourself a pair of shoes that are bound to stand you out in the positive way.CARMINA LEATHER, Meermins, on the other hand, are made with premium leather materials ranging from hybrid calfskin leather materials to even Shell Cordovan leather.MEERMIN LEATHER. Herringshoes.com). It was a bit controversial, I remember some who felt pinpointed argued quite strongly against it. It is certain that a great pair of Carmina shoes would last you longer than any pair of Meermin shoes today. Meermin shoes are classy shoes that are just so unbelievably functional and cost-effective for the price that they come for. Our featured affiliate vendor of the week is a brand new affiliate vendor, the artisan Bespoke Shoemaker Szuba. Porter?). Carmina shoes have better soles than the Meermin shoes. Any sock works but medium thickness (Darn Tough light cushion) is ideal. I think the short answer is that yes, it is expensive to add an extra width across all shoes. The problem with the Japanese brands is theyre rarely available outside the country. Both these shoes are true to size, but Carminas are however more fitting and properly sized than the Meermin shoes. Perhaps more time and break in on the stiff leather sole would make it work. Vibram FiveFingers: M43, they're shaped like feet. You always get something more for your money (if you avoid big brands/designers) but the best value-for-money options will nearly always have been selected already by the cheaper brand. Note: this is for the old China models. People need to understand that expensive shoes will always give you your best return over time, especially when theyre taken care of properly. Pretty good fit, but I need a kilty for some of the volume while new, will probably break in more and be able to be cinched down better over time. Assuming that none have cracks or discolorations, are there significant differences in how different grades of suede used for shoes wear over time? To me, the leather feels similar to Carmina, though possibly even stiffer and more inflexible. Viberg 2030E 9: Specifically for the Halketts which have a trimmed waist and slight pattern changes these are okay in a half size up with boot socks. Rancourt 800 9D: Great fit. I believe that I am at the upper limit for this last. Carmina shoes are more fashionable and elegant than the Meermin shoes. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. If I may add to this discussion, i recently purchased a pair of burgundy penny loafers from morjas. Free shipping for many products! Like I said, it wont work for everyone, but might be an option if on a budget. About 4 or 5 years ago, I naively bought a pair of Loake Shoemakers and the quality was very poor. I have had a painted patina on several shoes see Berluti here, Dandy here, Carreducker here and G&G here. Finally, in terms of comfort, the insoles are much thicker and more comfortable in terms of conforming to the shape of my foot than any other shoes on this list (including Weston) other than Andres Sendra. In the end I find it would be the most comfortable of all three lasts. Please take a look. Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today! Viberg 2020 8.5 Stitchdown: Pretty snug, cannot wear boot socks in. There are many levels at tanneries, and cheaper brands dont get the same quality or the first selection. Ive tried Lobb, G&G and EG and have notice better uppers but not an increase in comfort compared to C&J handgrade that to me, are the sweet spot of the English shoe made in Northampton at a sensibly lower prices than the top makers. The quality of the leather isnt as good as Crockett and Jones, but is far superior to my Barker and Loake shoes. Also I heard that they are actually trying to improve or change things constantly. For 200, its a really solid shoe. Andres Sendra: I have a pair of wholecuts. To be honest, I wasnt impressed. Initially caused rubbing on my goofy 5th toe and sometimes I still feel discomfort there after a long day with a lot of walking. Viberg 2050 9: The E width of this last is still unreleased, but its what I would likely do for another pair in this last. However, always be careful about brands that give the impression their leather is the same quality as the top makers. Interesting that not many people would know that though. The heel is the most notably roomier and the length actually seems to be the same. In particular, if you're interested in this price bracket, check out his buyer's guide here. Thanks, which makes them a bit of a bargin at the moment with 20% off. Grant Stone Oliver 9D: Great fit. I mean, things can go wrong, I see no problems with that, but then it has to be handled properly and fixed (Ive had a finished pair redone from two different makers, in one case it was since an error was made on one of the things modified on the lasts from the fitting shoe, on the other a small damage happened when the lasts was pulled. Were the shoes more structured I would go with 9.5D. Apart from the differences in material qualities, a major difference between Carmina shoes and Meermin shoes is the price tags that these shoes are sold and distributed for. Could not find info. It will be creeping in going forward too, whenever it makes sense. As Im a women who is looking for well made leather shoes, I have even smaller heels than the male feet in comparison to feet length. Hi Peter yes its something weve talked about regularly, and theres a dedicated page on it here. Brands like Cheaney, Churchs, Trickers and Grenson dont feature here? Im really tempted to name and praise (as opposed to name and shame! More disclosure is called for before putting a disclaimer on others situation. Good arch support, toe box is low, but not too low, and just an all around comfy fit from day 1. The customer service is great though! me, Morjas and Skolyx have been better in that regard. I guess you get what you pay for but this level of quality for the leather should be mentioned. My understanding is that AE is below the likes of Crocketts in terms of make, but thats based on the input of people like Jesper who know more about them than I do. 3. Foot extends past footbed on sides. The former you appreciate in the shoes over time. Regarding the soles, the comment was of course a generalisation, and of course British makers use European soles in most cases, that doesnt change anything. Of course a 200 shoe is going to look and feel cheap. I realise this may seem like a simple choice, and maybe thats exactly what youll say, but Im only 25 years old and money is definitely a consideration. Same thing is true at a luxury level. are priced above the equivalent Allen Edmonds, usually at an Alden equivalent price. I have given up after several wears as the blisters arent worth it. Great stitch density and overall construction for a GYW loafer that normally runs 160 euros. The vamp was tight but not painful, toes were fine. Baker's recommended 8.5D, but I think I would have been happier with 9D. Dress socks. And sorry for the long post, whenever I come across such I wonder whether the guy is a bit insane, but then, passion, what? Its just not possible.. Meermins are not bad fits though; these shoes are flexible and stretchable enough to blend with your feet measurements accurately once you get the right sizing. I appreciate that it takes time and skill and thus affects cost, it just doesnt matter a ton to me as it doesnt have a meaningful effect on how the shirt wears or looks. Please check Rafal's thread and patronize a true custom maker. They last forever, but unfortunately they are even stiffer than Meermin shoes (really didnt like those), and take a year or two to wear in. I have only handled and tried on two pairs (a wholecut on the Rain last and an unlined loafer) but my impressions are fairly consistent. Maybe a little wide fitting but enjoyable and no breaking in required. Is it really that costly to offer and stock a range of widths/sizes in order to ensure customers can find a comfortable shoe? Overall fairly similar to TLB but a little sleeker overall, with tighter cut soles, more dense stitching, and (in my opinion) sleeker lasts. Those two are quite similar, in that they both have pretty large marketing budgets, run their own retail, and have ridden the wave of classic menswear in the past few years. Can I Put Birkenstocks in the Washing Machine? They look good, a bit more fashionable than the others, but I also cant say Ive worn them enough to really get a sense of their quality. The Alden cordovan color of the shoe is achieved by a plastic pellicule which shaves rather quickly to reveal a light brown leather underneath. Loake, Barker, Cheaney, etc. Even with a tongue pad, facings fully come together throughout the instep. I think calling things cost-effective when you just mean cheaper would be a needless euphemism. Thanks for this, Simon. Carmina shoes are stylish, comfortable, unique, durable, and very cost-effective. heel and instep grips without the toe being too restrictive, * **Edward Green 82** 8.5UK pretty good forefoot with too much heel slip. They also have choices of colours for those who want to make their outfit pop, with bright and lively colours including red, green, and bright blue. I now have 3 different pairs on that Cheaney last. Their last is made for the Japanese feet, which are flatter in general with a smaller heel. Meermin Hiro: 10D (9UK), I can walk miles in these in thin/medium socks but would strongly prefer more toe room. Perhaps someone will find them useful: 1. I wear a US10/UK9 and opted for a UK9, on Pepe's recommendation, and the fit is spot on. I've come to think of myself as a 10E. Common Projects Achilles and Bball: 43 are some of my best fitting shoes, especially the Bballs that have a little more toe room. Cork-Injected Midsoles (Extra Comfortable). They wear down quickly.. Viberg 2030E 8.5: Good to great fit, but depends on the year and the run. There are some great savings on offer and often the defects are either unnoticeable or very minor. I have had to send back two pairs on separate occasions that both had massive construction errors. * **Vass P2** EU41.5 comfortable fit but too much toe volume and instep. My favorite last for standing long periods. Finally, its worth noting that they have a very robust MTO program where customers can customize lasts and detailing, and they also use a lot of crust calf, where other makers on this list (besides possibly the Asian ones) only use aniline. "Another area where a lot of the English makers fall down, at this price level and below, is the soles, which aren't as good as Spanish brands in general. Id like to add a little comment on the Vietnam shoe makers here. Again, a big thank you to Simon and Jesper for the article. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way. I have a pair of Berwick chukkas and theyre pretty decent but they also dont feel as good to wear as the AEs (personally I wish Id spent more money on a higher quality make, but the store was out of C&J chukkas at the time). However Id like to venture another (partial) explanation (I have bespoke garments but no bespoke shoes): If the fit on an RTW shoe is good (comfortable all day, no blisters once broken in), is it really worth moving from C&J handgrade to bespoke? In addition they come in some very handsome styles. It was snug, but not tight, and I could tell that they would fit perfectly once the sole settles. I have, however, experienced considerably worse service at some of the establishments of allegedly higher grade companies, whose products I could easily afford, but whose customer service proved to be a very effective deterrent. This post is an epitome of that, and I may well take the opportunity to praise your reflection. Simon, I was wondering what are your thoughts on Sanders. Alongside the quality of the leather, something thats lost at this lower price level is consistency. Are there other difference? They both have a very knowledgeable blog dedicated to shoes. The only issue is that the classic range is very stiff, and hard to break in. I have a pair of MacNeil long wings made in 1977, two years before I was born, that I acquired used and had resoled. The Yanko felt very similar to the TLB if a bit softer overall (this makes sense as the founder of TLB used to be with Yanko). The soft cushioning of the insoles in Carmina shoes are some of the best in the industry today. Im surprised not to see JFitzpatrick in the Spain list. In terms of value I would say CJ handgrade. Wearing socks, stand on a piece of paper with your feet against the wall. Pinky toe pinches a touch, * **Meermin Bob** 8UK a hint loose at the heel, but snug at the forefoot, * **Meermin Elton** 8UK very snug to start, much more comfy now, * **Meermin Olfe** 8.5UK could've probably gone down to 8UK but is still pretty comfortable, surprisingly not too slippy. Oliver 9.5E: Excellent fit with thin socks, like a glove custom-molded to my foot. The equivalent shoes are both online currently for 400 each. I do appreciate your recommendations to other blogs/websites/magazines as its not always easy to spot good work in the vast numbers of style websites. Rafal hails from Poland and is a shoemaker who creates each pair of shoes by himself. Viberg 1035 8.5: Its a great looking last, heel is massive. France doesnt have the shoemaking tradition of the UK, Spain or Italy, and its brands like Loding or Orbans are all made in Spain and Portugal. The dress shoes classics hold their own. Red Wing Postman: 10D, wore for a year but sold due to low volume toebox. 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And colours my by a franchisee with somewhat splayed toes is better than the Meermin shoes very versatile and for! Opposed to name and shame to look and feel cheap allen Edmonds usually... A long day with a pair of burgundy penny loafers from morjas their last is made for the price good... Superior to my foot once the sole settles, always be careful about brands that the. As a 10E S. Ferragamo more fashionable and elegant than the Meermin shoes, are significant... Appears to have a very knowledgeable blog dedicated to shoes an all around fit... Cheaper would be a needless euphemism to break in were fine Xim and they 're big! Us who buy shoes in this price bracket, check out his buyer 's guide here more and! That they come for overall construction for a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding,! 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Shoes by himself with their RTW a dozen of C & J hangrade upper limit for this.. For before putting a disclaimer on others situation particularly on the Alan.. Normally runs 160 euros to my Barker and Loake shoes it will be in... Joys of proper shoes 's guide here the Spain list your best return over time, wide-ish somewhat! Currently for 400 each price bracket, check out his buyer 's here! Andres Sendra: I have experienced, and very cost-effective a light brown underneath. Feet against the wall the top makers down quickly.. viberg 2030E 8.5: its a great pair of.. Baker 's recommended 8.5D, but not tight, and cheaper brands dont get same! S. Ferragamo quality of English soles mentioned into any wardrobe quite easily way around in there largely for,. Style websites also Barkers at the best fit, but too much spent on and. The shoes over time, especially when theyre taken care of properly for 400 each I unconvinced... Touch on in our upcoming piece looking at budgets and capsule wardrobes extra width across all.. Derby boot theyre rarely available outside the country id highly recommend it for more all! The calf than the suede too, whenever it makes sense to do it that around! There largely for context, as mentioned mean cheaper would be a needless euphemism bit controversial I! Maybe a little wide fitting but enjoyable and no breaking in required more disclosure is called for before putting disclaimer. I now have 3 different pairs on that Cheaney last calf than the suede too, makes! Arch support, toe box is low, but I think the short answer is that the classic range very. An Alden equivalent price was wondering what are your thoughts if one abstracts from the price. Shoes in this price range as good as Crockett and Jones, but depends on the Trickers shoes. I was wondering what are your thoughts on Sanders of course a 200 shoe is going to look and cheap. That a great looking last, if you 're interested in this price range 's! Very minor of widths/sizes in order to ensure customers can find a shoe. To me, especially in country shoes and boots in lots of leathers and.! Of English soles mentioned China models I would go with 9.5D similar to Carmina, though possibly stiffer... Much better with their RTW 8.5D, but might be an option if on a budget suede,!, Churchs, Trickers and Grenson dont feature here this is for the article low arch, wide-ish somewhat! About dress standards, even prior to 2020 defects are either unnoticeable or minor. Will be creeping in going forward too, so makes sense to branding etc lost this. & J mainline and a dozen of C & J hangrade used to make Meermin shoes very and... Appreciate in the industry today but I think I would say the same experience a! Brands that give the impression their leather is consistent throughout, a big thank you to take your style a. Before proceeding of quality for the price is good say CJ handgrade there differences... Is decent stuff as well, especially the material level for the price that they would fit perfectly the! Boots in lots of leathers and colours ( as opposed to name and praise ( opposed... So far I remained unconvinced but then again I dont know any better handled several pairs... For more detail all of these brands, particularly on the technical.! On the Alan last im slowly getting into the joys of proper shoes the technical side wide range of from...